Showing posts with label purani dilli. Show all posts
Showing posts with label purani dilli. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

the new Al Karam at Satya Niketan : whipping up old Delhi food with a new fervor



Food from the streets of Old Delhi is not just food in the physical sense. It is a tradition that has lived on and evolved over generations. It is the root stock for the modern fusion cuisine, infusing flavours into new techniques of cooking and new ingredients may be. But the old school cooks of old Delhi still cook their food the traditional way, the spices are milled and ground and the meat is cut and pounded exactly the way it was done a century ago, or even before.

You would feel the honesty in the food once you take a bite. And that happens when you eat at Al Karam. The original Al Karam is located in the Matia Mahal street but somehow it couldn't catch up with the magnanimous popularity of it's neighbors Karim's and Al-Jawahar. Al Karam got a new lease of life when a young restaurateur gave them a chance to showcase their food at Gurgaon (DLF phase 4 market) and now at Satya Niketan market too. The food and portions at the Satya Niketan market is made to suit young students and families both. They have two separate menus for students and others. I found the newly opened Al Karam at Satya Niketan quite basic yet peppy in it's energy.


They have introduced a few exotic dishes like roast Quail and Emu but the cooking methods are traditional.

While the food is heavy and rich, you don't feel too stuffed if you keep your portions under control. The gilafi kabab was as good as we had tasted last time. These foods keep calling you back to them.


We loved this Quail roast so much not just for the taste but for how it looks. That tiny little bird swimming in a butter rich sauce. This is the first time I 'liked' quail by the way.


This Butter cream chicken was good. I was reminded of how we have seen people almost drowning in huge bowls of this butter cream laden chicken in Matia Mahal, all polished off with roomali roti. This one was a close imitation of the original, I think the curd used was a little bit too sour. I am sure they would have taken care of it by now.


This Hakeemi chicken was something I was tasting for the first time and it was good. With hints of fenugreek and ginger, the creamy gravy is laden with nut paste as well. Quite a balanced bouquet of flavours.


 Umm...and the haleem is so yummy too. We are planning to get haleem packed from there sometime soon. We have had better haleem than this but Al Karam haleem is quite good on it's own too, robust and yet light.


Robustness you have to see in the buff nihari they serve. I think they serve mutton nihari mostly and the buff nihari is served on request. We loved every bit of it although we have had better nihari with marrow thrown into it in the streets of Nizamuddin.


The best thing we tasted was the roasted duck. This is something I would call the signature dish of Al Karam Satya Niketan. Very well cooked moist pieces of duck, charred well and the spice coating is so well balanced too.


This is one of those dishes I would be reminded of whenever I would dig into some duck. Did I tell you I don't normally like duck much :-)

Doused in old traditions the dusk gets a new makeover. Although the makeover could not do much to Emu meat. I wouldn't eat emu meat again, too tough and doesn't take the flavours well. Useless meat. Do you think I will change my opinion on Emu meat?

I still have a lot of favourites at Al Karam. Will keep getting take-aways from there. Honestly good food at affordable prices I must add.

Thursday, September 3, 2009

ishtoo... the way we had at Al Jawahar



Purani dilli is the treasure trove of authentic Mughlai food and I had my first experience of EOiD with a few fellow bloggers. Pamella Timms of eat and dust and Hemanshu of Eating out in Delhi........I was inside the Jama masjid for the first time in my life ( for any masjid for that matter), it felt good. I never believe much in ritualistic prayers but witnessing a sea of people praying simultaneously fills you up with a different kind of energy, the jama masjid was truly majestic under the evening twilight.........


The food we had at Al Jawahar was another high , especially for me , as I actually don't remember when was the last time I went out eating ( take-aways not counting...:))....

Apart from other things we had, I was very curious about the mutton stew as one of our blogger friends was almost selling the stew....recommending everybody to try the stew as she had loved it on an earlier visit........awesome it was ...with the fluffy tandoori roti to sponge off the gravy.....I got it packed for Arvind and he loved it ..

I had to try this and Arvind was quick to bring some mutton today expecting the ishtoo........:):)
before going to the recipe, I must tell you that the stew at Al Jawahar was laden with dalda and almost half a cup was floating on top of the gravy (got a stomach upset as I am not used to oily and heavy stuff).........the thing to note here is , that it is easier to bring out the aroma of the spices in a fatty medium , so when you use a lot of fat to cook something like this , the aromatic essential oils of the spices get extracted in the fat very well, also , slow cooking improves the flavor as more aromatic oils are extracted in the cooking medium on low heat and in a longer time...........

This stew is a delicately flavored dish and the spices are dominant with their top notes....( the base notes of the spices make the gravy more hot)..

Stewing is done with cooking the spices and the meat simultaneously in onion paste , some water and fat....releasing the top notes of the spices only.........(when we crackle the spices in hot oil, the base notes also come to the cooking medium).....so here , if you need the gravy hot, you need a bit more spices than mentioned.......mine was hotter than the restaurant though..........


ingredients

(serves two)

mutton 250 gm
whole red chillies 4 nos.
cumin seeds 1 tsp
whole coriander seeds 1.5 tsp
fennel seeds 1.5 tsp
whole peppercorns 20-25 nos.
green cardamom seeds and skin separated 2 nos.
black cardamom a few seeds only ( about 1/4 of a whole pod)
a small cinnamon stick
half a star anise ( optional, i am just obsessed by it)
cloves 4 nos.
a small sliver of mace
salt to taste
ghee 1 tbsp
fresh cream 1 tbsp ( i used home made malai)

to be minced in a processor or chopper



2 big onions
an inch piece of ginger chopped
7-8 small cloves of Indian garlic


to be made into a fine paste
1.5 tbsp of melon seeds ( magaz in urdu and kharbuze ka beej in hindi)
100 gm of thick curds

procedure

first of all cut the chillies with a scissor and remove the seeds..


now, place everything except cream and the magaz-curd paste into a pressure cooker with a cup of water and cook covered with a plate( not the cooker lid) for about 20 minutes on very low flame till the mutton pieces change color and a light aroma of spices starts wafting through...

cover with the cooker lid and allow pressure cook till done ( takes about 20 more minutes).

take off fire and let the pressure release....open the lid and add the magaz-curd paste and simmer on very low flame for another 20 minutes ..

finish with cream...mix well and serve with any fluffy flat bread you can get hold of..

I felt like cheating when I added a tbsp of tomato ketchup as the stew at AJ was a bit sweet....I had seen in TV shows that they add tomato ketchup for a more rounded taste......it was good as it was so similar to what I wanted to achieve...:):)

I made a khameeri ulte tawe ki roti which was perfect , made with whole wheat fermented with yeast...I'll post a detail procedure when I make it again as the picture is not very clear this time.....



If you want the stew to be a bit mild you can reduce the quantity of spices , or increase the amount of ghee and cream used or interestingly, it becomes milder and tastier the next day.........as you like it.